Rite of Spring Riesling Tasting

Riesling Facts and Opinions:
1. A reasonable claim could be made that Riesling is the finest white wine variety in the world on the basis of the longevity of its wines and their ability to transmit the characteristics of a vineyard without losing its own style.

2. Riesling will always be distinguished for its ability to produce great sweet wines whether they be the cold weather specialty Eiswein, or the late harvest, often botrytized, Beerenauslese or Trockenbeerenausele.

3.Riesling is noted for its powerful, focused, aromatics, variously described as floral, steely, honeyed, or mineral.

4. A long, slow ripening period suits Riesling and manages to extract maximum flavor while still maintaining the acidity that prevents the wine from tasting cloying. It’s also why Riesling fares poorly in warm growing regions like California’s North Coast.

5.After Germany, particularly the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and the Rheingau, Alsace is the next best source of great Riesling, especially in those vineyard sites which have been designated Grand Cru.

6. Most Alsace Riesling is produced in a dry style with considerably higher alcohol than found in its German counterpart.

7. In the New World, Riesling is most widely grown in Australia where, until 1990, it was the most widely planted white variety until being surpassed by Chardonnay. The cooler Eden and Clare Valleys produce dry-style Rieslings with tangy, lime flavors and the ability to age for up to a decade.

8. Riesling is fairly widely grown in South America, Argentina more so than Chile, but often in regions which are too warm to make distinguished wine as the vineyards ripen way too quickly.

9. The newest site for interesting Riesling is in the Niagara Falls region of Canada just over the border from the Finger Lakes (which can also produce very good Riesling). These most often take the form of Eiswein (or “Ice Wine”) and which command very high prices.

The Wines:

1. Cousino-Macul Riesling "Donna Isadora" 2002, Chile $7.99
This dry-style Riesling is produced by the superb Cousina-Macul winery and may be the greatest value in Riesling anywhere.

2. Mount Horricks Riesling 2003, Clare Valley, Australia $24.99
If you should do a wine tour of Australia, one of the first things you notice is that all the winemakers gravitate toward Riesling, not Chardonnay, Semillon, or Sauvignon, when white wine is called for to accompany Australia’s marvelous seafood. This is the best dry-style Riesling we have tasted in years from Australia.

3. Pierre Sparr Riesling Reserve 2002, Alsace $14.99
An excellent example of the dry-style Alsace Riesling.

4. Wente Riesling 2002 Arroyo, CA $9.99
This rare California Riesling comes from a relatively cool climate and is just a bit off-dry.

5. Bookwalter Johannisberg Riesling 2003, Columbia Valley $11.99
Eastern Washington is well-suited for Riesling (note the northerly latitude). This is in a Kabinett-style, slightly sweet and excellent as an aperitif.

6. Nigl Riesling 2002 Kremser Kemsleiten, Austria $37.99
Austria is capable of excellent Riesling (although Gruner-Veltliner is the variety getting the press). This one has lovely aromatics and excellent crispness, leading into a long finish.

7. Boxler Riesling Brand 2000 Alsace Grand Cru $47.99
Contrast this Grand Cru Riesling from a great grower with the Sparr Riesling (#2). The additional complexity, focus, and richness show through brilliantly.

8. Trimbach Riesling "Clos St. Hune" 1991, Alsace $59.99
Trimbach’s Clos St. Hune is Alsace’s most famous and longest-lived Riesling. Made in a bone dry-style, it typically requires a decade of cellaring before it begins to strut its stuff. When I was in Alsace 10 years ago, the winery presented a tasting of 20 vintages dating back to 1927. The latter was in impeccable condition with seemingly another 20 years of life ahead of it.

9. August Kesseler Estate Riesling 2002, Rheingau $15.99
Kesseler is one of the great growers in the Rheingau, a region known for a more burly style of Riesling as compared to the delicate Mosels. It has lovely aromatics and crisp, off-dry flavors.

10. Monchhof Estate Riesling 2003, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $13.99
Our first 2003 German Riesling. This was an unusually warm vintage and it was virtually impossible to make dry wine but the best producers were able to retain very good acidity in their wines in order to achieve the proper balance.

11. Milz Trittenheimer Spatlese 2002, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $25.99
2002 was a splendid vintage in the Mosel with full ripeness, a forward, fruit-driven style, and Milz succeeded admirably with this rich yet precise and focused effort.

12. J. J. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2002 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $55.99
Many regard J.J. Prum as Germany’s finest producer. Wehlener Sonnenuhr is one of the great vineyards of Germany and this late-harvest wine illustrates just how great Riesling can be. Bear in mind that this wine will improve for 12-15 years in a cool cellar.